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Offline Anakritis

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Baguettes Beyond Belief...
« on: Aug 22, 2011, 01:28:01 PM »
Baguettes Beyond Belief…


Figure 1, Freshly Cut Baguettes...


Most of the people that I know love to cook in some form or another. Most of them are reasonably good at it too. Their entrees are routinely complimented and deserts are swooned over. The technical skill and practicality of my friends never ceases to amaze me. However there is one food Item that the majority of my friends tend to run from as if they are being attacked by a bear. That item is bread.

For some reason most of my kitchen cohorts are somewhat curiously afraid of tackling this most essential of food items. I mean nearly all forms of bread are avoided as if they were boiled okra, white, wheat, baguettes, quick, flat, sweet, enriched… any form of bread. I have actually had many of them state that “Why bake when you can buy bread that is just as good?”. Well, my answer is invariably “you can’t”.

In this day and age you will find your neighborhood supermarket filled with bagged breads and fresher bakery goods. Many of these Items are tasty and cost effective but they are also mass produced and full of chemical enhancements, chemical enrichments, and preservatives, even the bakery items.

Nothing can compare to a real loaf you prepare in your own kitchen, by your own hand. Your kitchen is the only place where you can control all that goes into the bread, and also receive the pleasure of claiming the creation.

One of my favorite breads to create is a lean baguette. Simple baguettes are a pleasure to behold and sublime to savor. Baguettes that are visually stunning, light and airy, perfect crispy crust with a nutty, grainy aroma and a warm nutty flavor are amazingly easy to prepare.

This is a recipe that produces simply outstanding baguettes and is not awfully hard to prepare, in fact it is downright easy! The most impressive thing about these baguettes is their flavor, nutty and rich with a light airy texture. Once you learn the method I am quite sure you will prepare them repeatedly and often…. And once you hear the “ooooo’s” and “Ahhhhh’s” from your family and friends at the dinner table you will be hooked just like me!


Baguettes Beyond Belief…

Ingredients:


6 cups unbleached bread flour
2 ¼ teaspoons salt
1 ¾ teaspoons of instant yeast
19 to 24 ounces of ICE COLD water
1 handfull of coarse yellow corn meal for dusting (grits)

The Method:

This method is a unique bread recipe in that we are going to delay or retard the fermentation for at least 8 or 10 hours before allowing the dough to rise. We do this buy employing ICE COLD water and once the ingredients are mixed we place the entire dough ball in the refrigerator for 8 to 10 hours. The yeast will still ferment the dough but it will do so very slowly. Slow fermentation like this produces deeper, richer flavors than traditional fast fermentation.

So, you must plan the baking of these baguettes in advance. I always bake these baguettes right before a meal, so plan to mix the dough at least 12 to 15 hours in advance. Lets say you want them for lunch the following day. It would be wise to mix them up and place them in the refrigerator the night before. I also prefer to mix these baguettes in a stand mixer.

Mixing the dough…

Place all the dry ingredients, flour, salt, yeast in a stand mixer and affix the paddle attachment. Mix briefly to incorporate all the dry ingredients.
With the paddle attachment still affixed, on a low speed, slowly dribble the ICE COLD water into the dry ingredients.
After you have gotten about 1 and a half cups of the water incorporated stop the mixer lift the head and clean off the paddle attachment and switch over to the dough hook.
Continue mixing and dribbling in water until the dough clears the sides of the mixing bowl but still clings to the bottom.
Never spin the dough hook faster than medium. You just want enough action to incorporate the water and mix the sticky dough with a little kneading action. Anything faster will heat up the dough and we want to avoid this, as it will prematurely activate the yeast.

Once mixed and you have a sticky dough that clears the side of the bowl while still sticking to the bottom, transfer the dough ball to an oiled bowl. Flip the ball around in the bowl to coat with oil, cover the bowl and put it in the fridge.

Fermentation…

The next morning (or 8 to 10 hours later) check on your dough and remove it from the fridge. It should have risen slightly but should not have doubled. In fact if everything was done correctly it should have risen about half. If you started with about one liter of dough you should now have a liter and a half.
Place the dough in a warm spot to rise, de-chill and continue fermentation. The dough should double or even triple in 2 or 3 hours. Do not let the dough go farther than tripling in size, in fact doubled is fine.

Shaping the loaves…

Turn the dough out onto a heavily floured kneading surface, but do not knead. Be gentle with the dough and try not to de-gas it or deflate it too much. You will deflate it some just handling it but be careful and deliberate when handling the dough.

Gently coat the entire dough ball in flour. Carefully form the dough ball into an “8 by 6” rectangle and then allow it to rest for 5 or 10 minutes.

Once finished resting the dough, use a dough scraper or even a plastic ruler to cut the dough lengthwise into two “3 by 8” rectangles. Gently press the cutter or ruler, trying not to “Cut” but rather “pinch” the dough into two pieces. You are trying to seal the cut edge this way.

Once again cut each “3 by 8” into “1.5 by 8” rectangles employing the same “pinching” technique.


Once you have four equally sized “1.5 by 8” inch pieces gently roll each cut edge underneath the baguette and stretch each baguette out to about 18 inches in length. Be patient and take your time. Move from the center out to each end and use a light pinching motion. Do not pinch so hard as to de-gas the dough, but rather to elongate the baguette. If the dough refuses to cooperate fully do as much as you can and let it rest 5 minutes then return to stretching them to size.

Once you have achieved the proper length, cut a piece of parchment paper (do not use waxed paper) to fit a heavy 12 by 18 cookie sheet and place it on the sheet and dust liberally with corn meal. Gently and quickly transfer the baguettes to the sheet, reshaping them after placement, until each has been placed on the sheet. Dust each loaf lightly along the sides with flour and form the sheet to cradle the loaves as shown in the picture. Cover with a linen towel and allow the dough to proof for no more than 30 minutes (see figure 2, 3, and 4).


Figure 2, Forming the baguettes during proofing...


Figure 3, Close-up of parchment form...


Figure 4, Cover while proofing...


Figure 5, Proofed, separated and ready for baking...

While the dough is proofing, place a shallow baking pan on the bottom shelf of your oven and place a cooking rack in the center position. *** PRE-HEAT the oven to 500 degrees ***

Baking…

When the dough is proofed to your liking, has swollen slightly and taken a nice shape, and the oven is really, really hot you are ready to bake.

Pull the parchment sheet folds out to let the loaves rest apart from one another, by gently pulling on the parchment paper edges until all the loaves are evenly distributed on the sheet.
Spray mist the loaves lightly with water (see figure 5).

I always bake directly on my baking stone, but if you do not have this luxury simply bake the baguettes on the heavy cookie sheet they are already on.

If you have a stone simply slide the baguettes, parchment paper and all, off of the sheet directly onto the stone.
If you are cooking on the sheet place the sheet on a center rack, parchment paper and all.

Pour a cup or two of water in the baking pan on the bottom of the stove and close the door.

Do NOT open the door again for 10 minutes.

Do not worry about the paper, it will not stick and it should not catch fire because we are only baking for 20 minutes or so.

In 10 minutes open the oven door quickly and determine if the loaves need rotating for even baking. Reduce the heat to 400 degrees and bake for another 10 minutes. Watch them closely but try not to open the door at all. The loaves are finished sometime after 20 minutes and should register 205 to 215 degrees in the center. They should be a deep nut-brown and feel light and airy when lifted. If they feel somewhat heavy or are under temperature allow them to cook a little while longer.

When you are satisfied with the loaves, remove them and place them on a cooling rack and allow them to cool for 30 minutes or so.
Be patient and let them cool their flavor matures and blossoms while cooling.

Do not forget to clear all the parchment paper from the oven and turn off the heat.

These baguettes keep for three or four days, but trust me when I tell you, they will not last that long!


Figure 6, cooling on the rack...
« Last Edit: Aug 22, 2011, 01:35:56 PM by Anakritis »
Many men go fishing their entire lives without knowing it is not fish they are after.  --Henry David Thoreau

Offline stonesean

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Re: Baguettes Beyond Belief...
« Reply #1 on: Aug 22, 2011, 01:34:21 PM »
Thanks!

I might try these this weekend!

I can cook pretty well...(I've even had friends who have been cooks at London's Savoy Hotel tell me this)...but baking?  That's another story!
Well.  There it is.

Offline Anakritis

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Re: Baguettes Beyond Belief...
« Reply #2 on: Aug 22, 2011, 01:41:02 PM »
Thanks!

I might try these this weekend!

I can cook pretty well...(I've even had friends who have been cooks at London's Savoy Hotel tell me this)...but baking?  That's another story!

You will love these, they are easy and their flavor is unbelievable! Enjoy!
Many men go fishing their entire lives without knowing it is not fish they are after.  --Henry David Thoreau

Offline TheLostVertex

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Re: Baguettes Beyond Belief...
« Reply #3 on: Aug 22, 2011, 04:56:46 PM »
I am a big fan of cold fermentation myself. It gives the bacteria and enzymes a chance to play their rool and as a result you get excellent flavor. I dont know what temperature your fridge is at, but most fridges are kept at a point which will cause most of the yeast to become completely dormant till it warms up again. So for people planning on putting this in at night and waking up to take it out, I would put the dough on the warmest shelf of the fridge to help promote closer to normal yeast fermentation as well. :)

I always score my non-rustic breads with a razor blade. This does 2 things. It promotes an even shape, and generates more oven spring. One long even stroke to not tear the dough and let too much gas out.

As Anakritis said, its best to prepare the day you want to use, as most hard and lean french and italian breads will be best the day they are baked. If you want to store them, store them in an open paper bag. Plastic will cause it to stale.

Cold fermentation produces great results, glad to see some one else doing it :) I always use a very long cold fermentation process for my lean pizza doughs. :)

Thanks for the pics and write up again Anakritis.

Offline Anakritis

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Re: Baguettes Beyond Belief...
« Reply #4 on: Aug 22, 2011, 05:37:16 PM »
I am a big fan of cold fermentation myself. It gives the bacteria and enzymes a chance to play their rool and as a result you get excellent flavor. I dont know what temperature your fridge is at, but most fridges are kept at a point which will cause most of the yeast to become completely dormant till it warms up again. So for people planning on putting this in at night and waking up to take it out, I would put the dough on the warmest shelf of the fridge to help promote closer to normal yeast fermentation as well. :)

I always score my non-rustic breads with a razor blade. This does 2 things. It promotes an even shape, and generates more oven spring. One long even stroke to not tear the dough and let too much gas out.

As Anakritis said, its best to prepare the day you want to use, as most hard and lean french and italian breads will be best the day they are baked. If you want to store them, store them in an open paper bag. Plastic will cause it to stale.

Cold fermentation produces great results, glad to see some one else doing it :) I always use a very long cold fermentation process for my lean pizza doughs. :)

Thanks for the pics and write up again Anakritis.

Very well stated. It never ceases to amaze me how just flour, salt, yeast and water can produce such a complex, rich and pungent taste an aroma. You can mix this recipe with tap water (not ice cold) and just ferment it as usual but it comes out nearly flavorless (just yeasty). The delayed fermentation is key, in fact the ICE COLD water when mixing is key. This technique allows complete hydration and extended enzymatic and microbial action before the yeast takes over and MAN what a difference.
There is no way any store bought baguette even comes close to what you can do with this recipe, and that is not an exaggeration.
The recipe is simple and a person can usually get it pretty close to perfect even the first time out, but of course practice makes perfect.

I will make these comments,

I always put the dough on the top shelf in the fridge as it is the warmest area (my fridge is set at 5 out of 10, probably between 38 to 48 degrees).

I never score this baguette (although I have done it with poor results), it is far too soft of a dough, it just never works well and tends to deflate the dough far too much and actually prevents maximum oven spring and as you can see the results without scoring are awesome.

I always store these baguettes (when there are any left!) wrapped in a cotton linen or wrapped in a Parchment. If you put them in a plastic anything they will be bad in a matter of hours (seriously).

I rarely bake any other type of baguette anymore, these are just too damned good and SO easy to make.... I can practically make them in my sleep now LOL!

Thanks again Vertex!
« Last Edit: Aug 22, 2011, 05:41:07 PM by Anakritis »
Many men go fishing their entire lives without knowing it is not fish they are after.  --Henry David Thoreau

Offline Anakritis

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Re: Baguettes Beyond Belief...
« Reply #5 on: Aug 22, 2011, 05:45:36 PM »
By the way LostVertex I would be interested in learning your cold fermented Pizza recipe if you are willing to share!
Many men go fishing their entire lives without knowing it is not fish they are after.  --Henry David Thoreau

Offline TheLostVertex

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Re: Baguettes Beyond Belief...
« Reply #6 on: Aug 22, 2011, 07:07:52 PM »
Yeah, wrapping in cotton or parchment is the way to go. Plastic is good for soft and enriched bread though. Just not these.

For scoring, its very easy to degas baguettes too much unless you have a very sharp razor or lam. There is sort of a technic for making a slice that is smooth and doesnt deflate the surrounding dough, sort of like slicing a tomato. But if you have good results with out scoring, then great :D

As for store bought breads, you will never get on near as good unless its a very good bakery. Stores mix their baguettes so they only have a 30-60 minute bulk fermentation time. With cold fermentation you are pulling out a whole lot more flavor. As you said, you will never get something like it in a store.

Ill be happy to post some of my pizza and other baking stuff when I get a chance :) My pizza dough gets fermented for 3 days before I use it, so it would take me a little bit to get some pictures and info up.

Offline Anakritis

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Re: Baguettes Beyond Belief...
« Reply #7 on: Aug 22, 2011, 07:54:49 PM »
Yeah, wrapping in cotton or parchment is the way to go. Plastic is good for soft and enriched bread though. Just not these.

For scoring, its very easy to degas baguettes too much unless you have a very sharp razor or lam. There is sort of a technic for making a slice that is smooth and doesnt deflate the surrounding dough, sort of like slicing a tomato. But if you have good results with out scoring, then great :D

As for store bought breads, you will never get on near as good unless its a very good bakery. Stores mix their baguettes so they only have a 30-60 minute bulk fermentation time. With cold fermentation you are pulling out a whole lot more flavor. As you said, you will never get something like it in a store.

Ill be happy to post some of my pizza and other baking stuff when I get a chance :) My pizza dough gets fermented for 3 days before I use it, so it would take me a little bit to get some pictures and info up.

3 DAYS  :D...

Wow, The longest any of mine go is 24 to 30 hours, and of course there are the wild yeast starters and breads that from inception of the starter to finished bread total more than a month, but thats sourdough for ya!

You do not have to include pictures if you don't feel like going to all the trouble, ingredients and method descriptions are fine.

The only reason I include all of the pics with my recipes here is that I am writing a book, so I take lots of pictures, write a bunch, take more pics, write a bunch more, and when I feel like sharing with the people involved with the other passion in my life (Skepticism) I post the tastiest ones right here! Sometimes at the JREF too.
Many men go fishing their entire lives without knowing it is not fish they are after.  --Henry David Thoreau

Offline T.A.P.O.R.

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Re: Baguettes Beyond Belief...
« Reply #8 on: Aug 22, 2011, 11:54:02 PM »
Great.
Now I'm salivating.