Author Topic: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread  (Read 21336 times)

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Online BilLumberg

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #300 on: August 08, 2019, 08:33:47 PM »
The 4cyl should have a A4LD transmission. There is a vacuum modulator on the passenger side of the case that can fail. Easiest way to check is to pull off the vacuum line at the modulator. If there is any fluid in the vacuum line the diaphragm inside the modulator has ruptured. This can cause erratic shifting. The modulator is what controls the line pressure on the transmission. If the engine is running rough it can also cause the transmission to shift rough because of the low vacuum signal. If the engine is running well, and the modulator checks out, the next most likely cause would be a sticky valve. Next step would be to pull the pan. Some fine metal on the magnet is normal, but look for brassy colored metal particles on the bottom of the pan and in the fluid. That is normally from a failing thrust washer. A little is OK, but large deposits are a bad sign. If the pan does not look too bad, a new filter and fluid is worth trying. There are two styles of filters A4LD use. A metal screen or a Dacron media style in a plastic body. The dacron would be what you want to use. They are a much better filter and will capture much more than the screen type. If you want to try a additive, I would recommend lubeguard brand. The basic red bottle is the one you would need. The A4LD is not picky about fluid so any universal ATF will work fine. Get it back together and warmed up and go drive it some. The idea on the drive is to really make it shift. Up and down, up and down. Automatically and manually. What you are trying to do is stroke the valves and flush out any metal that could be causing them to stick when cold.

If there still are issues there is not much else you can do short of rebuilding or replacing. I can send you a rebuild manual in pdf format if you want it, but this is really not the best unit for a beginner.


Online The Latinist

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #301 on: August 08, 2019, 09:08:12 PM »
Slightly off-topic, but I didn’t want to start another thread for us car guys.So I’ve been looking at new vehicles for about a month now, and I came to the conclusion that I couldn’t be happy buying American or Japanese under 30K.  I had just about settled on getting a new Golf with a 1.4L turbocharged engine; it wouldn’t have driven like my 2006 2.5L naturally-aspirated inline-5 Rabbit (I’ve yet to find any car in my price range that’s even approaching as fun to drive), but I was going to at least give one a thorough test-drive.

But it turns out that the 2019 Golf are out of stock and VW probably isn’t going to offer the Golf in North America next year.  So I took stock again and realized that what I really want to drive for the next 15 years is one of the numerous AWD electric vehicles with tons of torque that I expect to come out in the next 2-3 years.

So this is my new plan.  My wife has a 2011 Subaru Forester that has almost as many miles on it as mine but is in better shape because it’s five years newer.  She drives many more miles a year than I do, too, because of her commute.  So I’m proposing that we buy her a new Forester next Spring/Summer and I take hers and drive it for another 5 years or so. By then There will hopefully be a plethora of electric vehicles, one of which I will fall in love with.

I will have to make a few changes to her car, of course.  The head unit will have to be replaced with a CarPlay-compatible aftermarket model.  It will need some higher-rated tires than it’s got in it now.  I’ll have to wrap the steering wheel.  I know it won’t be a pleasure to drive, but it will get me where I’m going safely, and will hopefully hold me over until I find something truly special.
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Offline xenu

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #302 on: August 08, 2019, 09:51:40 PM »
I like your plan
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Offline Alex Simmons

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #303 on: August 08, 2019, 11:12:03 PM »
I'm toying with the next car and when question as well.

My 2007 2.0 TDI Golf has 200,000+ km on the dial but goes like a rocket. I had the engine management retuned (180hp / 400Nm) a while back and it performs so well. Needs shocks replaced though.

I just can't see suitable EVs being available here that are affordable for quite a few years.

As I'm now living rural and not city, an SUV AWD style vehicle with towing capability is more of interest. Considering Skoda Kodiak, VW Tiguan, maybe 2nd hand VW Toureg. Other possible option is new Toyota RAV4, the hybrid version looks pretty interesting. Subaru Forester perhaps. Don't like Mazda's options or the Hondas and detest the Jeeps.

Offline Desert Fox

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #304 on: August 09, 2019, 12:20:21 AM »
The 4cyl should have a A4LD transmission. There is a vacuum modulator on the passenger side of the case that can fail. Easiest way to check is to pull off the vacuum line at the modulator. If there is any fluid in the vacuum line the diaphragm inside the modulator has ruptured. This can cause erratic shifting. The modulator is what controls the line pressure on the transmission. If the engine is running rough it can also cause the transmission to shift rough because of the low vacuum signal. If the engine is running well, and the modulator checks out, the next most likely cause would be a sticky valve. Next step would be to pull the pan. Some fine metal on the magnet is normal, but look for brassy colored metal particles on the bottom of the pan and in the fluid. That is normally from a failing thrust washer. A little is OK, but large deposits are a bad sign. If the pan does not look too bad, a new filter and fluid is worth trying. There are two styles of filters A4LD use. A metal screen or a Dacron media style in a plastic body. The dacron would be what you want to use. They are a much better filter and will capture much more than the screen type. If you want to try a additive, I would recommend lubeguard brand. The basic red bottle is the one you would need. The A4LD is not picky about fluid so any universal ATF will work fine. Get it back together and warmed up and go drive it some. The idea on the drive is to really make it shift. Up and down, up and down. Automatically and manually. What you are trying to do is stroke the valves and flush out any metal that could be causing them to stick when cold.

If there still are issues there is not much else you can do short of rebuilding or replacing. I can send you a rebuild manual in pdf format if you want it, but this is really not the best unit for a beginner.

You hit one of the rubs with repairing the car. It had a problem that I had trouble diagnosing. I brought it to a backyard mechanic (has a shop at his home). He is younger though and does not have much skill with older cars. Decided to try to replace vacuum lines but sis not do the "Remove One / Replace One" and he may have screwed up the vacuum line to the transmission. She sometimes was having trouble shifting since he worked on her but only for a few minutes.  I had to restore the vacuum line to the environmental controls because he screwed it up.

Edit: Can I just run a new line from the main vacuum line to the transmission?
« Last Edit: August 09, 2019, 12:35:00 AM by Desert Fox »
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Online BilLumberg

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #305 on: August 09, 2019, 12:01:04 PM »


Edit: Can I just run a new line from the main vacuum line to the transmission?

Sure, As long as it is getting direct manifold vacuum it will work fine. There can't be any check valves between the engine and the transmission. When the throttle is opened the vacuum signal needs to drop in order for the transmission to react properly to the increased load.

Online The Latinist

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #306 on: August 09, 2019, 04:35:02 PM »
This is a decidedly non-DIY story.  So we’re on vacation in Vermont. Stop to visit a historic site. Get back in the car and take off only to hear a rattle from the right front wheel. Stop, listen to it rolling.  Pull the wheel cover and out rolls a lug nut with broken stud. Fuck. Fortunately, we’re about 4 miles from a Subaru dealership. Although it’s already after 2:30, they fit us in. Estimate $160. If I was at home, I could do it for next to nothing, but so be it.

So we walk across the street to get a sandwich. While we’re eating we get a call: the ball joint on that side is loose. They don’t pressure us to let them replace it, but in two days we’ve got a 300-mile drive home. Double fuck.

I could have done this work for about $50 in parts, but we’ll be paying $360 for it. C’est la vie.
« Last Edit: August 09, 2019, 04:37:32 PM by The Latinist »
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Offline Desert Fox

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #307 on: August 10, 2019, 02:31:32 AM »


Edit: Can I just run a new line from the main vacuum line to the transmission?

Sure, As long as it is getting direct manifold vacuum it will work fine. There can't be any check valves between the engine and the transmission. When the throttle is opened the vacuum signal needs to drop in order for the transmission to react properly to the increased load.

Still working on Ball Joints of the Ranger but when I crawl under, I will see if I can trace a vacuum line at least.
"Give me the storm and tempest of thought and action, rather than the dead calm of ignorance and faith. Banish me from Eden when you will; but first let me eat of the fruit of the tree of knowledge."
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Online The Latinist

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #308 on: August 10, 2019, 06:35:08 PM »
By the way, the same day that we had the broken lug and ball joint issue, we got our windshield ruined by a flying stone.  Safelite will be replacing it on Monday.
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Offline Desert Fox

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #309 on: August 11, 2019, 01:27:20 AM »
Ball Joints can be a bear though - Was using a ball joint separator attached to a long piece of pipe  and still took all my effeort to get them apart.
"Give me the storm and tempest of thought and action, rather than the dead calm of ignorance and faith. Banish me from Eden when you will; but first let me eat of the fruit of the tree of knowledge."
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Online The Latinist

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #310 on: August 11, 2019, 12:53:53 PM »
So we were all set to leave this morning, but I had to run a quick errand.  Pulled back in ready to load the car up and *rattle rattle* there’s another broken stud on the other fucking wheel. What the hell?
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Offline brilligtove

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #311 on: August 11, 2019, 12:56:41 PM »
Have you checked for Gremlins?
evidence trumps experience | performance over perfection | responsibility – authority = scapegoat | emotions motivate; data doesn't

Online The Latinist

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #312 on: August 11, 2019, 01:16:02 PM »
Have you checked for Gremlins?

Come to think of it, my mother has been feeding the children after midnight.
I would like to propose...that...it is undesirable to believe in a proposition when there is no ground whatever for supposing it true. — Bertrand Russell

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #313 on: August 11, 2019, 01:17:11 PM »
"There's yer problem right there."
evidence trumps experience | performance over perfection | responsibility – authority = scapegoat | emotions motivate; data doesn't

Online The Latinist

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Re: The Car Maintenance and Repair Thread
« Reply #314 on: August 11, 2019, 05:40:50 PM »
Drive my uncle’s 1999 BMW z3 today: 2.8L i6 5 speed.  It’s amazing how similarly it drives and handles to my 2006 Rabbit 2.5L i5 5-speed. German cars, man.
I would like to propose...that...it is undesirable to believe in a proposition when there is no ground whatever for supposing it true. — Bertrand Russell

 

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